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Charlotte RoofersResidential & Commercial

Residential Roofing · Roofing material

Slate and Tile Roofing for Charlotte's Finest Homes

Natural slate, clay and concrete tile, and synthetic alternatives repaired, re-laid, and installed by people who understand weight, flashing, and the historic streets of Charlotte.

In plain terms: A slate or tile roof done right protects a home for generations and keeps the character that made you fall in love with the house.

(704) 804-8404

Drive the streets of Myers Park, Eastover, or the older blocks of Dilworth and you will pass roofs that have been shedding rain since before the Depression. Many of them are natural slate. Others are clay tile laid on Tudor revivals and Mediterranean-inspired homes from the 1920s and 1930s. These roofs are among the most durable coverings ever put on a house, and they are also among the most misunderstood, because the slate or tile itself is rarely what fails.

What fails is everything around it. Nails corrode, underlayment turns to dust, valley metal rusts through, and chimney flashing opens up. A roofer who does not understand slate walks across it, breaks a dozen pieces getting to the leak, and recommends replacing the entire roof with shingles. We take the opposite approach: figure out how much life the slate or tile has left, fix the components that have actually failed, and only recommend full replacement when the condition of the roof honestly supports it.

This page also covers tile and slate for newer construction. Clay and concrete tile appear on custom homes around SouthPark, Ballantyne, and the Lake Norman shoreline, and synthetic slate has become a popular choice for homeowners who want the look without the weight. Each option carries its own requirements for structure, underlayment, and flashing, and we spell those out here.

Natural slate: reading a roof that may outlast the house

Slate is quarried stone split into thin shingles and hung on nails through pre-punched holes. The quarries that supplied Charlotte's early twentieth-century homes produced both hard slates, which are typically expected to last a century or more, and softer slates that begin to delaminate and flake after several decades. Knowing which one you have is the first question, because it changes everything about whether repair makes sense.

We evaluate slate from ladders and roof hooks rather than by walking on the stone, tapping individual pieces to listen for the clear ring of sound slate versus the dull thud of a piece that has gone soft, checking for flaking faces and powdery edges, and counting how many pieces are cracked, missing, or slipped. We also look at the nails. Many early roofs were hung on steel nails that rust and let slates slide out one at a time, a problem that shows up as scattered slipped pieces rather than a single leak.

Individual slates are replaced by sliding out the broken piece with a slate ripper, fitting a matching replacement in size, thickness, and color, and securing it with a copper hook or a nail and bib flashing. Done properly, the repair disappears into the roof. Done with roofing cement and face nails, it fails within a few seasons and damages the pieces around it.

Clay and concrete tile: weight, profile, and freeze-thaw in the Carolina Piedmont

Clay tile is fired earth, available in barrel and S-shaped profiles that give Mediterranean and Spanish revival homes their silhouette, as well as flat profiles that look closer to slate. Concrete tile is a cast cement product that comes in similar shapes with greater weight and a surface color that is applied rather than fired through. Both are heavy. A square of tile can weigh several times what a square of architectural shingles does, and a home that was framed for shingles cannot simply receive tile without a structural evaluation.

Charlotte's winters bring freezing nights even though they are mild overall, and water that soaks into a porous tile and then freezes will spall its surface. Tile specified for this region should carry a freeze-thaw rating appropriate for climates with regular freezes. Concrete tile also tends to show efflorescence, a white mineral bloom, in its first years, and its applied color fades under our UV more than fired clay does.

  • Clay tile holds its color for the life of the roof; concrete tile fades and may eventually be recoated.
  • Both require a structure sized for the load, verified by an engineer when converting from shingles.
  • Tile roofs are walked only on the headlaps or on pads, never on the crowns of barrel profiles.

Synthetic slate and composite tile: the look without the structural question

Composite slate and shake products are molded from polymer blends or recycled rubber and plastic, with individual pieces that mimic the texture and shadow lines of quarried stone. They weigh roughly what an asphalt roof weighs, so they go onto standard framing without reinforcement, and most carry the highest impact rating that the common hail test standards assign. For a homeowner in a 2000s-era subdivision who wants a slate look the architectural committee will accept, synthetic slate is often the practical path.

The honest trade-offs are these. Synthetics have decades of track record rather than a century, their color is a pigment rather than stone, and in a historic district a review board may not accept them as a replacement for natural slate on a street-facing slope. They also expand and contract more than stone, which makes fastener placement and nailing pressure critical during installation.

Flashing and underlayment: where slate and tile roofs actually leak

On a slate or tile roof, the metalwork does the hard work at every transition: valleys, chimneys, sidewalls, dormers, and the built-in gutters that many pre-war Charlotte homes carry at the eave. That metal was originally terne, galvanized steel, or copper, and the steel and terne versions have usually rusted through by now while the stone above them is perfectly sound. Replacing a valley or re-flashing a chimney on a slate roof means carefully removing and numbering the surrounding slates, installing new copper or lead-coated copper, and relaying the original pieces.

Underlayment on an original roof was often a single layer of felt that has long since crumbled. On a sound slate roof that is not an emergency, because the slate itself is the weather barrier and the underlayment was mostly a construction-phase cushion. It becomes an issue when the roof is re-laid, or when a tile roof depends on its underlayment as the true waterproofing layer, which is how most tile systems are designed. In those cases we use heavy self-adhered membranes rated for the temperatures a dark tile roof reaches, with battens or elevated batten systems that let water drain beneath the tile.

Snow and ice are rare here, but wind-driven rain from summer storms and tropical remnants is not. Headlap, the overlap between courses, has to be sized for the pitch, and the ridge and hip details need proper closures so that rain blowing uphill cannot reach the deck.

Repair, re-lay, or replace: making the call on an old roof honestly

The decision comes down to a few measurable things. What share of the slates or tiles are broken, missing, or soft. Whether the failures are scattered, which points to nails and age, or concentrated at flashings and valleys, which points to metalwork. How much of the original material can be salvaged, and whether matching stone or tile is available for the remainder. And what the decking and structure look like from the attic.

A roof with sound slate and failed metal gets repaired. A roof with sound slate and failed nails may be a candidate for a re-lay: the slates come off, the deck is repaired and new underlayment installed, and the original slate goes back on with new copper nails, supplemented with matching reclaimed or new stone. A roof with widespread soft, flaking slate, or tile that is spalling across every slope, has reached the end and should be replaced, either in kind or with a synthetic that a review board will accept. We put the counts and photos in writing so you can see the basis for the recommendation.

How the work is carried out

  1. 1

    Non-destructive evaluation

    We inspect from ladders, hooks, and the attic rather than walking on the stone, sounding slates, checking nails and metalwork, and photographing every slope so you can see the condition for yourself.

  2. 2

    Written findings and options

    You receive a report with counts of broken and slipped pieces, the condition of flashing and underlayment, and a clear repair, re-lay, or replacement recommendation with the reasoning behind it.

  3. 3

    Sourcing matching material

    We locate slate or tile that matches your roof in size, thickness, and color from quarries, manufacturers, or salvage, and we bring samples for your approval and for any historic review.

  4. 4

    Structural and permitting review

    For new tile or slate on a home framed for shingles, we arrange a structural evaluation, and where a permit or historic district approval is required we handle it before scheduling.

  5. 5

    Careful execution

    Our crew stages materials to protect the roof and your landscaping, works from hooks and pads, replaces flashing with copper or coated metal, and relays or installs each piece by hand.

  6. 6

    Final walk and maintenance guidance

    We review the completed work with you, document it with photographs, and explain how to care for the roof, including what to tell any future contractor who needs to work around it.

Signs your home needs this

  • Slates are sliding out of the roof one at a time and collecting in the gutters or on the lawn.
  • Pieces of tile or slate are visibly cracked, chipped, or missing, often after a limb falls or a worker has walked the roof.
  • The faces of slates look flaky, powdery, or soft, or the edges crumble when touched.
  • Leaks follow the chimneys, valleys, or dormer sidewalls rather than appearing in the middle of a slope.
  • Rust streaks run down from valleys or from the built-in gutters at the eave.
  • A white, chalky film has spread across concrete tile, or tiles are spalling at their surface.
  • A previous repair used tar or roofing cement on the stone and is now cracking and lifting.
  • You are buying or selling a slate or tile home and need a real condition assessment rather than a glance from the yard.
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Slate & Tile questions, answered

My slate roof is almost a century old. Does that mean it needs to be replaced?
Not by itself. Hard slate commonly lasts a century or more, and many of Charlotte's oldest roofs are still sound stone sitting on failed nails and flashing. The age of the roof matters far less than the condition of the slate when it is tapped and examined up close. We assess the stone first and recommend replacement only when the slate itself has gone soft across the roof.
Can my house support a tile roof if it currently has shingles?
Only after a structural evaluation. Clay and concrete tile weigh several times what asphalt shingles do, and most homes framed for shingles need added support before tile can be installed. Synthetic slate or tile avoids the issue because it weighs about what the shingles did.
Will a historic district approve synthetic slate as a replacement for natural slate?
It depends on the district and on the slope. Some review boards accept synthetic products on slopes not visible from the street and require natural slate on the front. We help you prepare the samples and documentation and tell you in advance what is likely to be approved.
Why does my tile roof leak when none of the tiles are broken?
Because most tile systems rely on the underlayment beneath the tile as the actual waterproofing layer. When that membrane ages or the flashing at a valley or wall fails, water gets past the tile and finds the deck. The fix is to lift the tile in that area, replace the underlayment and metal, and relay the tile.
Can you repair just a few broken slates without redoing the whole roof?
Yes. Individual slates are removed with a ripper and replaced with matching pieces secured by copper hooks or bib flashing, and a handful of repairs can keep a sound roof going for many more years. The important thing is that the repair is done without walking on and cracking the surrounding stone.
How often should a slate or tile roof be inspected?
An annual look at the gutters and the slopes from the ground, plus a professional inspection every few years and after any major storm, keeps small problems small. Slipped pieces, failing metal, and clogged built-in gutters are easy to address early and costly to ignore.

Ready for a straight answer about your roof?

Tell us what you are seeing and we will come take a look, explain what we find and give you an honest, upfront estimate.